Following Milan and London, designers at Paris Fashion Week also adopted rigorous and precise codes of tailoring and precise uniform dressing
The Fall-Winter 2023-24 edition of Paris Fashion Week saw a return to embracing craft, with design houses creating tailored suits with sharp shoulders.
Virginie Wired tweed luncheon suits, jackets and cardigans with lace Bermuda and tights embellished with camellias, one of the key components of Chanel’s DNA.
From the Christian Dior show on February 28
At Alexander McQueen, Naomi Campbell was a vision in a noir romper styled with a corset bustier. Meanwhile, McQueen’s creative director Sarah Burton showed off a lined-up black suit, white shirt and black tie, and pinstriped blazer and tailored off-the-shoulder number. Here are some of the key trends that emerged from the event:
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Many design houses collectively adopted rigid and precise codes of tailoring and precise uniform dressing. Chanel had a lot of long, slim cocktail coats in patent leather, in addition to 60s mod-style suits. Valentino, too, fell for the allure of the tailored dress code, giving the classic black suit some edgy touches: suit blazers with ties, along with an array of micro shorts, skirts and jumpsuits, revealing lots of leg. It was hard to ignore the ’80s-style power shoulder in Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Also worth mentioning are the square shoulder jackets at Isabel Marant, easily the season’s staple essential.
Camellia flowers became the centerpiece of the Chanel show, embroidered on jumpers, printed on skirts and appliquéd on shoes and bags.
Viard tailored Camellia (known to be a favorite of Coco Chanel) to suit her playful sartorial fantasies. The invitation to the show also includes Nana Comastu, actress and House ambassador, who is holding a white camellia.
It was an emotional show for the legendary designer Paco Rabanne who passed away recently. Its creative director Julian Dosena paid tribute to the late founder by bringing back six dresses from the archives worn by the likes of Jane Birkin and Francoise Hardy. Balmain, too, derived beautifully from the house’s signature patterns and silhouettes.
return to craft
Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior had strong, formidable women with incredible personal style in mind, from Catherine Dior, the couturier’s sister Juliette Greco, to the Left Bank singer and singer Edith Piaf. Chiuri’s flagship T-shirt of the season read Piaf’s timeless song “J ne regrette rien”.
He experimented with heritage fabrics such as the Argyle check in the ensemble. There was a lot of tartan at YSL, houndstooth at Chanel, and Dries van Noten’s early look was in pinstripes.
it’s raining pearls
Saint Laurent featured lots of exaggerated poussebo ensembles, while the Balmain show was filled with bow dresses, pearls, bow-fronted slippers and pumps.
Pearls were also a recurring motif at Givenchy, which extrapolated to pearlescent corsetry.
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